GARBAGE DRESS: November 2008

INSPIRATION: TSUMORI CHISATO

I was planning on writing about Tsumori Chisato because of today's theme of illusions. I was going to write about her hidden detailing and narrative designs, but I think there is much, much more. The word "recession" is something that I've been trying to avoid, for the reasons that a) I don't know how to explain it eloquently and b) the impact it has produced for any of us involved in retail is so devastating that I'd rather write about other things to get my mind off of the situation.

So here we are, wearing all black, splurging less, appreciating h&m more, all doing the same DIY projects. My dark wardrobe is paired down, comforting, perhaps 'complex', and pretty fulfilling. Its perfect for next season's black-dipped spring...but once the runway trickles down to pedestrian level, everyone's going to be dressing a little bit darker. And while I'd normally be an advocate for shaded attire, I think that we will all benefit from an infusion of joyous dresses to keep our chins up through what will probably be a hellish few months. And this is where the enigma Tsumori Chisato comes in.

If you've ever had the opportunity to see her dresses in person, you will understand what I mean by 'they make you gasp a little bit'. Each piece appears to be crafted by hand (many of them are...and take months to create), and each one is pure fantasy. The collections are dreams, stories, wandering minds. Shapes melting, characters appearing, folklore depicted in sequins. The craft is serious while the ideas are playful - the perfect ratio. With each collection you are immersed in a theme...whether it be the ocean, a little girl's room, or patterns falling apart. The dresses tell stories of innocent escape. Indulging dreams.

We are in store for days that will challenge our optimism and chip away at our humor. I am not a fashion crusader, but I do think that dressing to maintain an illusion of lighthearted hope is going to be important to all of our mental wellbeing. And if we're always talking about fashion as a mode for expression, what better action to express than a smile?

Fuck this took a long time! Fun, nonetheless. Feel free to keep commenting with personal intros and questions!

Q from China/Marian/Dayna: What inspires you most?
-I really don't have any specific idols or sources that I constantly draw inspiration from. Of course there are designers who I adore...its more spur of the moment appreciation. I'm inspired by people who are productive, people who are generous, people who aren't afraid to smile and have fun. I'm inspired by my mother, I'm inspired by great music. Yeah, music is probably right up there on the list.

Q from Kayla/Dayna: What do you do for a job?
-I work at a store in SF called HARPUTS MARKET. My responsibilities there range from merchandising, buying of collections, washing windows, graphic design, and sales floor. Its a small sho with an outstanding selection of worldwide avant-garde clothing. I also do freelance webwork on the side!
documentation!

Q from Laura: How do your keep your blog fresh? Are pictures important?
-The thing that has always been important to me is maintaining original content. One of my main critiques of fashion blogs is the constant regurgitation of the same content, the same images, the same articles. I think the best thing that anyone can do, blogwise, is to contribute a piece of themselves. I think I live a pretty interesting life, and am interested in the lives of those around me. Therefor, photo documentation is extremely important! I also try to update at least once per day. That is key.

Q from J.Rock: Assuming you are a similarly budget-conscious young person, where do your draw the line between mindless consumption and splurging on a piece you simply MUST own?
-I used to be pretty bad with this. A couple of years ago I was the sort of gal who would hoard throw-away thrift and vintage pieces. Now, I'm more of an investment shopper - and with this comes more expensive pieces. I have certain rules for what prices are acceptable for specific clothing items, but what it comes down to is what is realistic for me at the moment. I've never owned a credit card, and I've never made any purchase decisions which impede upon other aspects of my living...that's just silly! And in regards to "MUST own" pieces: If I'm tempted by a possible splurge on a perfect item, I usually put it on hold and think about it for a few days and if I just CAN'T get it out of my mind (read...waking up early to envision the piece, telling everyone I know about it, etc) then I know its meant to be.

Q from Summer: What are you MOST excited for in going to Berlin?
-Eating currywurst again! Partying until sunrise! Meeting Berlin bloggergals! Complete exploration!

Q from Theresa: Whats the item in your wardrobe you can't live without?
-American Apparel black shiny leggings.

Q from Taylor: What is the most awkward situation you have ever been in?
-A one night stand on Halloween involving emerging from a house on high-profile street corner at 9am wearing a pumpkin costume. Another time, someone asking me if I was a tranny (long story.)

Q from Fawn: I used to be a wee little goth when I was in school, and now I am a goth again. If feels good but slightly regressive. I wonder if it was the same way with you? Do you have a favorite thing about this new goth revival in fashion?

(My high school goth-on-the-beach look)

So in high school I was a hot-topic-y art kid who idolized Rasputina, so yes the gothic aesthetic has always been with me...I love its revival! Especially the emergence of experimental textiles used for layering black. I think with the goth revival it is really easy to spot those who are "trying out" the look, and those who are genuinely enamored with it.

Q from Danielle: What is your favorite thing that you have ever made? Can you post some of your art?
-This one is really tough...as I don't really have a favorite! I think one of the greatest things I made was a pair of high-waisted sequined hot pants that I wore on new years eve 06/07, inspired by Chanel. I'm pretty proud of most of my art-clothing pieces, and am working on an epic coat right now! I'll post more of my art as I finish it, but you can always look at it all on my site zanabayne.com

Q from Nectar: What is your most prized possession?
-This would probably be my Nikon D70s camera. It's truly revolutionized the way that I document my life. Also, my black dominatrix/matrix Zucca coat!

Q from Ana B.: My favourite karaoke song is Gangsta's Paradise by Coolio. What's yours?
-I like Nancy Sinatra's "These Boots are Made for Walkin'", and "Toxic" by Britney Spears. I tried to get someone to sing "Closer" by NIN with me, but no one would man up to it.

Q from Ginny: What sparked your interest in style?
-As cheesy as it sounds, I just never wanted look like everybody else. Standing out was key from birth:

Q from MGI: Give me one good reason. You choose the context.
-1. Because you will never know if you don't take a chance 2. Universally applicable, but for the sake of this answer, lets say an attempted conversation with a stranger on the bus.

Q from Adrienne: You show off a lot of best-dressed friends but what about those worst-dressed friends who still make it look best?
-I take pictures of all of my friends, and do not discriminate based on my opinion of their sartorial choices. My friends are a big group of amazing, great looking people, who I appreciate individually! If there is one of my friends who you see featured repeatedly, that is because I have seen them more frequently that particular week.

Q from Anonymous: If a djinnie granted you three wishes, what would you ask for?
1. A German work visa
2. An awesome boyfriend
3. Jil Sander boots

Q from Laura/Cat: I see you are going to Berlin? Is it to live, holiday or study? And I see you are a fine arts student...what is your major? Is it fashion?
-Soo yes, Berlin. I plan on moving to Berlin in April or May, and I don't have a plan for how long I will stay there. I was initially planning on relocating to New York at that time, but realized that my heart is not quite there yet. My trip in January is for fashion week, networking, and (hopefully) meeting some awesome Berlin blog girls! And the for the second part, I am finishing up my BFA in "New Genres" at the San Francisco Art Institute. New Genres is pretty much conceptual artwork, so under that umbrella I am able to really work with whatever materials that I desire as long as its conceptually based.

Q from Laura2: Would you wear something made from glue and a trash bag out in public? Let's pretend it's marvelous.
-Is my blog not titled garbage dress? Most definitely! As long as I can cinch it in at the waist. This actually reminds me of one night at a sweaty dance party where I was wearing a long-sleeved shirt tucked into a skirt. The shirt's sleeves were too tight to roll up, and I was dying from the heat. I recall an attempt to rip off a sizable piece of the vinyl window coverings to try to craft a bandeu top, but luckily I realized what a tacky idea that was and just left the party instead.

Q from MJ: How will you go about finding that man on your poster?
-Stalker tactics

Q from Jenna: What is your favorite thing (or things) about San Francisco? Are you only living there because you go to school there? Were you born there? will you stay there once you are finished with school?
-I'm originally from Seattle, but my family moved to California (just outside of SF) when I was 13. Two years later we all moved into San Francisco, and I dropped out of high school and went straight to college right after I turned 16. I moved out of my parents' house about 2.5 years ago. The beauty of San Francisco is that it is an absolutely tiny city with a large population of creative young people. There's an abundance of nightlife and places to just sit around and peoplewatch. This being said, for me its gotten to a point where I want to try something new; to try being a stranger in a city. This is why I'm going to move to Berlin in April/May...

Q from Mingus: If you were forced to only wear one designer head to toe, who would it be and why?
-YSL. Just think about it; the maximum impact shoes, pristine-yet-forward-thinking-and-perfectly-tailored jackets. There's always an edge and always fantastic runway pieces!! My second choice would be Camilla Staerk.

Q from L. Diamante: Berlin - What are you packing? I have the hardest time packing light & I bring too much crap I don't even wanna wear later. UGH. How do you do it?
-I too have suffered from overpacking sickness! This time around, I will be in Berlin for 6 days and it will probably be dead cold so...my wolf fur hat, maybe two jackets, and one sweater. Other than that, I don't like to pack too many outfits because then I spend too much time getting dressed and not enough time exploring the city. One thing that I will ALWAYS bring is power-adapter for wall outlets, and an extension cord!! Soooooo handy, especially if you're traveling with a friend.

Q from Michelle: This is super boring, but what if any products do you use on your hair?
-Ideally, I use bumble&bumble's curly hair products. But I really just use head&shoulders and whatever conditioner is lying around. I guess my secret is to load up on leave-in conditioner and sleep with my hair wet so it dries a little bit flatter.

Q from Carissa: If you could have any designer make a custom dress for you who would it be?
-Whyyyyyy must I choose?? I can't pick one. Here are the contenders: Gareth Pugh (because he is a genius), John Galliano (because he would make me look like the ultimate femme), Martin Margiela (just because), Rei Kawakubo (because I want to be a walking sculpture), Alexander McQueen...

Q from Marina: I know you like no wave via reading your archives. What kind of music would you recommend and where would you take me (anywhere in the world) if I were to walk up to you and ask you to take me on a "no wave trip"?
-I love this question. I would take you to a city rooftop (probably in NY, the heart of the no wave movement) in the summertime right as the sun went down, so it was warm but not overwhelming. I would have a record player set up so that music would be orchestrating a panorama of buildings and lights. I might just play the "NY No Wave compliation", but here's a little playlist of some of my favorites (click to listen):

8 Eyed Spy - Love Split With Blood
DNA - Egomaniac's Kiss
Suicide - Ghost Rider
James Chance & The Contortions - Contort Yourself
Teenage Jesus & The Jerks - Empty Eyes
Lizzy Mercier Descloux - Jim On The Move

Q from James: What is the most valuable piece in your wardrobe? Describe please. Why is it significant to you?
I guess value can be judged in a couple of ways, such as monetary, sentimental, show, and functional. As far as these four categories are concerned, the first would be my black Zucca coat, the second would be my monster sweater that my mom knit for me, the third would be my Margiela bra leotard (like the one below...I never wear it), and the last would be my black shiny Daryl K dress, because its the type of piece that I could wear every day and never grow tired of.

Q from Latanya: Will you be my internet bff?
-Will you buy me a box full of chocolates?

Q from Warren: When can we have a dinner party?
-After the semester is over!

Q from Lucrecia: If and when I go to SF, will you give me a real SF tour?
-Oh girl you know I would. Complete with white wine sangria at the end.

Q from Katlin: Will you give me a discount at Harputs Market?
-Lets talk about this later

Q from Cherry: I would like to know what makes you sad and angry, and what is your perfume?
I angry when people are late, or when plans are changed last minute. I'm a pretty punctual person. I also get upset when I feel underappreciated or when certain efforts are overlooked. I get annoyed when people are too clingy, can't seem to be independent, or are too uptight to have a good time. I'm sad when my mom is unhappy or when I think about certain family dynamics. But I'm rarely sad or angry. I alternate between Jasmin & Cigarette, and Incense & Perfume, both by Etat Libre D'Orange

Q from Anna: How, how, how, did you make that amazing dress a few posts back?
-I made the dress from a simple flat pattern, mostly estimated and then taken in when needed. I have no formal training when it comes to clothing-making, so everything is really just guess and check work. My finishing skills are obsolete, so when you look closely, the handiwork is pretty sloppy...