ROZALB DE MURA SS10

The Remains

Every time I hear that a new collection has been released by Rozalb De Mura (rozalbdemura.ro), I become ravenous in anticipation to see it. To say that my attraction stems from its otherworldly qualities would fall directly in line with the label's origins - fantasy, folklore, tradition, far away lands, the past and the future all crammed together into one. The attention to and exploitation of detailwork for the SS10 collection is absolutely masturbatory; raw, ritualistic, worked and reworked to the point of obsession - not to mention the all encompassing red that all of the garments have been dyed. These are a true indulgence for me, and a necessary departure from the expected fashion imagery.

"The scrupulousness of the craft and attention to technical details are obsessive. With no zippers nor buttons, the pieces are held together through hundreds of strings, in an assembling process that looks like a ritual. Hundreds of cords sculpt the clothes from beneath, alluding to aboriginals’ under-the-skin tattoos. The play on volumes and functionality is infinite, depending on how the pieces are knotted together: the skirt can be worn as a cape or a jacket, the sleeves metamorphose into a corset. The whole collection is drowned in faded red. The overall sensation is visceral, a glimpse at a flayed body in an old anatomy book, in perfect harmony with the Hungarian title – bloody remains." - Rozalb De Mura